Dhamayan Gyi Temple, Bagan

There are very few temples in which you might not have a good feeling while visiting them. Dhamayan Gyi temple is one of them inspite of it being the largest.

The temple is the largest or widest and is unique for its pyramidal shape. It is the only such structure in Myanamar.

ruined entrance gate to temple

History of temple:

King Alaungsithu who ruled Bagan from 1113-1167 became ill in his last days. Narathu confined his father, north of Thatbyinnyu Temple, in Shwegugyi or Shwe-gu-gyi Guphaya, which Alaungsithu had built and was his favorite place. 

Narathu was his father's favorite son and his elder son, Min Shin Shaw who was the heir apparent was exiled to Mandalay.

When Narathu heard that the old king was recovering, he went to meet him and smothered him.

Now, Min Shin Shaw claimed to be the king of Bagan. Narathu agreed and after coronation, poisoned when he was taking his ceremonial dinner. Min Shin Shaw, thus became king of Bagan for a very short while and did not contribute to Bagan Kingdom.

Narathu now became the king of Bagan in 1167.

He got angry when his queen, daughter of King of Pateikkya performed some Hindu rituals and strangled her.

Overcome with guilt at having killed so many people, he finally thought of gaining merits by building a huge temple. But here also, he chopped the arms of workers who did not do the work as he wished.

The King was later murdered. One theory says that he was murdered by a group from India to avenge the murder of his queen. The queen was the daughter of the King of Pateikkaya (West Bengal). Another theory says he was killed by invaders from Sri Lanka.

The temple thus remained as it was and never got completed.

information stone outside the temple

entrance gate

temple as viewed from the entrance gate

map taken from orientalarchitecture.com

entrance to temple, stucco work still intact, flame pediment.

Our friend Mr. Myo prefers to sit and wait for us outside.

Recently, came to know that he passed away due to covid two months back. Will miss you Mr. Myo.

Golden Buddha at entrance on east

In all the four directions, there is a corridor which runs all around a central core, behind the image. The corridor is not well lit. It is said that the central core which is solid, contains hidden treasures.

close up

side up

On the south portico, is a Buddha image. It is said to be made from a single piece of stone.

 Mural painting belonging to Konbaung period (last dynasty from 1752 to 1885) can be seen behind the image.

 image in the north

beautiful work on wall behind the image

painted walls behind image

Mural on the side wall

Stone with grooves to lay arm on for amputations

Narathu commanded his people to lay each brick in such a way that even a needle could not pass in between. He chopped arms of those who did not do the work properly.

reclining Buddha

 reclining Buddha with gold leaf on him in a corner

western shrine with Gautam and Maitreya

beautiful work behind the image

rare images of Gautam Buddha and Maitreya (future Buddha) images

This original side-by-side Buddha images are on the western side. The face is golden, wearing a red robe, they gaze down in a meditative state in Bhumisparsh mudra, one hand touching the ground.

 bats on ceiling

The temple is said to be incomplete. As soon as Narathu died, construction stopped. Ceilings have clusters of bats hanging on to each other. There is smell of guano everywhere. My friend, Mr. Myo, who accompanied us said that on a new moon night, people smell blood in this temple!

It is locally called the "ghost temple" as they say that the temple is haunted by the sins committed by Narathu who killed his father, brother, wife and so many people who helped built the temple. No local dare visit the temple after dark.

Another theory says that the temple had become quite massive and the structure was unable to bear the weight of bricks so collapsed making piles of bricks at places.

In one corner of the temple are two inscription stones. It dates to 1165 and tells about the donations made by a princess on her mother's behalf and also donations of other kinds as rice fields, dancer slaves, cattle were made.

Murals around the temple:

The murals are not as beautiful as those in Sulamani temple. Most of them have not been maintained properly. Another difference are the frescos of animals in this temple. 

On the side of images of Buddha, run very short gallery with murals on wall.

mural covering the full length of wall

 Buddha

almost faded colors

mural covering the wall

 this section has animals on its wall

fresco of probably a bull

very faded fresco

another fresco on side wall, do not know whether the writing is genuine

high wall with window

side entrance

sand paintings, souvenirs on sale

one entrance has remnants of stucco

flaming pediment and makar on side

a small temple nearby

temple seen from road

Not a very beautiful temple from outside but a must see for its sheer size and the largest temple of Bagan Kingdom. Pity the temple has not been maintained well.

Manuha Temple, Bagan

Manuha temple is one of the oldest temple in Bagan. Situated on the main road in Myinkaba village it houses four huge images of Buddha.

inscription stone at entrance

History of temple:
King Anawrahta wanted to spread Buddhism and requested a copy of Tripitaka from the Mon King, Makuta. Makuta refused and King Anawrahta invaded Thaton in 1057, defeated and captured the king. Makuta was thus the last king to rule Thaton.
He was taken to Bagan and imprisoned. Manuha was the name given to king Makuta after this.

Being in captivity was very depressing for the king and he wanted to gain Nirvana to get rid of all pains. He requested King Anawrahta if he could construct a temple as it was a normal practice for the kings to build a pagoda or temple at that time.
King Manuha had no money with him so he sold a precious jewel to a rich merchant in Myinkaba. With that money he constructed the temple in 1059.
The temple is named after him.
The east facing temple has three huge gold painted images of Buddha cramped in small rooms probably portraying the anguish, discomfort and agony the King underwent during his days of captivity.

The building of temple is rectangular and is white in color. The first floor is a square structure on top. The edges of both floors are adorned with several small hti's all around.

At the top, there is a huge hti.

alms bowl with a ladder (see the man climbing it on the far side of the bowl)

This huge alms bowl can accomodate forty bags of rice. People offer rice and money into this bowl.

map taken from orientalarchitecture.com

central statue flanked by two other images on either side, "C" in the map above

This is the central image and  measures 46 feet high. The image is seen sitting in "Bhumisparsh mudra" with right hand touching the earth. All the images in this temple are too large for their rooms. The head almost touches the ceiling and there is hardly any space in front.

There is hardly any room to take full length picture.

entrance to chamber, notice the small aperture on top to let the light in

image on the south side, a small window or better to an aperture to let in some light

image on north side

The above two images flank the central one and are each 33 feet high. These two also sit in cramped room with only a small window near the head to let in some light.

 ceremonial bell

pillar on the south-east side with men carrying the ceremonial bell

Pillar on the south-east side with images and animals for paying homage to the eight days of Buddhist week. It is a very common sight to see this in most temples and pagodas. Water is poured on the image coinciding with your day of birth.
Wednesday is split into two, from morning to 12 pm and the second part from 12 onwards.

ceremonial bell

 King Manuha and his wife, Queen Ningala Devi

entrance to reclining Buddha chamber (yellow arrow), "B" on the map

This single, cramped room("A" on the map), has a 90 feet long reclining Buddha image. The head is towards north symbolising a stage of entering parinibbana, or the final passing away, releasing oneself from the sufferings and torture of life.

There are steps which lead to the upper floor from where one could view the images from above but unfortunately, they have closed it.

The face has a peaceful and serene expression

feet of reclining Buddha

souvenir shops outside the temple

There were girls with thanakha jars in hand, Bagan is famous for this leaf styled pattern. I got a pattern made on my cheeks.

Manuha temple is an active place and still worshipped to this date.