A lone pillar stands just opposite the Vietnam post office building near the Hoa Kiem Lake. Finding the details of this tower, led me to come across Bao An Pagoda. I side tracked from this tower and started finding more details about this pagoda and found out that this was the only surviving structure of this biggest pagoda in Vietnam. It shocked me to know that this huge pagoda was pulled down to make place for a post office!😢
The Hoa Phong tower is situated on Dinh Tien Hoang Street, on the shore of Kiem Lake, opposite the Post office.
In the process of finding more details about this pagoda, I came across some old pictures.
History:
The only surviving part of this biggest pagoda in Hanoi is the Hoa Phong tower. It also used to be called Sung Hung.
I am posting some old pictures from https://laodong.vn/photo/bo-anh-co-hiem-hoi-ve-chua-bao-an-tung-ton-tai-tren-dat-buu-dien-hn-656246.ldo
The Nguyen kings shifted their capital from Hanoi to Hue in 1802. It remained the capital till 1945.
The pagoda was built during the reign of King Thieu Tri, under the guidance of Hanoi's General Nguyen Dang Giai. He came from a Confucian family and was a firm believer in Buddhism and took steps to raise money to build the pagoda in 1842, to protect the heritage of his country against the French.
Ngoc Son or the Jade temple in the midst of Kiem Lake was also built during that time.
Hoa Phong Tower and the turtle island
The pagoda overlooked the Red river with its front towards Hoan Kiem Lake. It is said to be surrounded by several ponds in which lotus bloomed. That is why the pagoda was also known as the "Lien Tri" or Lotus Pagoda.
The massive pagoda took 4 years to build. In 1883, when Hanoi came under French protectorate, they thought of "modernising" and expanding the place. Sadly, they pulled down the pagoda to make place to build the post office and residence for the governor of Tonkin. This is the State Guest House now. A new post office stands in the same place as the earlier one.
The pagoda had an area of 360,000 square meters. Some say it was 440,000 square meters. Its outer wall is said to be octagonal representing the eight petals of lotus. The Hoa Phong tower was at its entrance on the west side with Hoan Kiem Lake behind it.
The pagoda was flanked by two towers and a brick courtyard led from the lake to entrance.
The above gate and the tower were left undisturbed after the pagoda was demolished but, in 1898, the temple gate too was pulled down leaving the lone Hoa Phong tower.
The complex housed monasteries and temples, apart from pagodas. It had 150 rooms and had 36 chambers. The compound had fruit and flowering trees. One can imagine the sheer size of this pagoda.
The vihar had pillars and red and gold with 1.5 meter Buddha image covered in gold graced the main altar. He sat in Bhumisparsh mudra on a lotus.
Bas-reliefs in wood and stone were said to be very impressive with scenes for sinners depicting life after death in hell. The French looking at the scenes on panels named the pagoda as "Pagoda of Torture" without a complete understandig of what it depicted.
After the pagoda was razed to the ground, many of its statues were shipped to France and carved priceless panels never recovered.
Hoa Phong tower today:
view of tower and post office across Hoa Kiem lake
turtle tower
The tower is quadrilateral, is three storey high and made of bricks.
First floor:
It has four open gates which look to four directions that is why it is also known as "tứ môn tháp" or the four gate tower.
side of tower which faced the pagoda or faces the road now
Motifs decorate on side of gate on all sides.
Second level:
This floor is smaller than the one below it.
On the east and west side of tower inside a square is "Bagua" or eight sided symbol in Taoism. It represents a balance between yin and yang.
The sides are surrounded by contour railings.
On the north and south side of tower inside an indented square is inscribed the sanskrit word "Aum"
Aum represents the Universe and the ultimate reality. It is not only the most important Hindu symbol but is equally important in Buddhism.
On its four corners on a raised square platform are "nghe", facing in an anti-clockwise direction.
Nghe is a sacred mythological animal who has head of a lion, body like a dog and a long tail. They are mostly seen guarding temples. It is said that they are able to differentiate between good and evil.
Third or topmost level:
Here, also there are niches inside which are written the name of tower.
The east and west side of tower inscription says Hoa Phong
Whereas, on the north and south, it says Bao Thien tower.
Next time, when you pass by this tower, don't say, it is just a brick and mortar tower. I have heard tourists say that. Stop a while and think the changing times this tower has seen through so many years.
