Tran Quoc Pagoda, Hanoi

Tran Quoc Pagoda or  Chùa Trấn Quốc in Vietnamese is located on the east side of Hanoi's west lake. It is one of most ancient pagodas dating back to more than 1, 500 years. The Mahayana Buddhist pagoda, was the center during the Ly and Tran dynasties.

stupa seen from a distance

bridge for American War Memorial, which cuts across the lake connecting to pagoda

History of Pagoda:

• The pagoda is said to start its construction in 541 and was completed in 545 under the reign of King Ly Nam De, who was the founder of early Ly dynasty in Vietnam.
• It was initially located beside Red River and was known as Khai Quoc.
• In 1615, during Le Trung Hung, it was moved to Yen Phu dyke.
• During 1624, 1628 and 1639, it continued to be expanded and restored.
• Due to erosion on the river bank, the pagoda was again moved during the reign of King Le Hy Tong(1600-1618) and renamed Tranc Quoc.
• Last restoration was in 2010 to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of Hanoi.

birds to be released for making merit

fish considered to bring good luck ready to go back in lake

Bodhi tree at entrance

entrance gate of pagoda

Dragons facing each other at the entrance gate

We did not check the pagoda timings and not until we reached the pagoda, did we come to know that it would be closed for lunch. We instead of waiting decided to go to One Pillar Pagoda

Bao Thap Luc Do Dai Sen:

Built in 1998, no one can miss seeing the 11 storey tower, Bao Thap Luc Do Dai Sen or the precious stupa. The tower is 15 meters tall.

The six sided tower has an image of Amitabha Buddha in each niche.

It is built symmetrically opposite to Bodhi tree,which is in front of the Tien Duong or the front house or the back side from where we stand now.

On top of the pagoda, is a nine-storey lotus called Cuu Pham Lien Hoa made of precious stones.

tombs from 18th century

Ancient tombs from 18th century during the Vinh Huu and Canh dynasties

image of Amitabha Buddha

All images are made in white stone and are in dhyaan mudra or the meditative posture. Lord Buddha sits on a fully bloomed lotus signifying the end of journey.

He has a swastika on his chest symbolizing the seat of Buddha's heart. Swastika should not be confused with the Nazi symbol.

offerings in front of image

The central pillar is surrounded by two and three tiered pillars.

All pillars have Buddhist "Aum" symbol

inside each pillar is a container for burning joss sticks

each pillar is topped with a lotus, some of them 

offerings

The complex has three main houses: Tien Duong, Thuong Dien and Nha Thieua.

The upper hall, Thuong Dien is connected to Tien Duong or the front house.

upper hall

dragon at the side of roof

There are lot of valuable statues of worship in the upper room. One most notable image is that of Shakyamuni entering Nirvana, that is the reclining pose which is very common to see in the wats of Thailand but here in Vietnam, it is not very common. Called by the locals as "Thich Ca Thap Niet Ban".

Unfortunately, it was closed when we visited the place.

house of stele

stone stele

The stele has record of pagoda's history.

pictorial illustration of Law of Karma

Nha To, place to worship gods and goddesses

On the opposite of house of stele is Nha To where gods and goddesses are worshiped.

In front is the incence burning urn.

Shrine of Mothers

Some of the oldest goddesses are worshiped here. In green dress, is the mother of mountains and forests, in red is the Mother of sky and the white Mother represents water.

three sages and ancestor monks of pagoda

This is very typical of a Chinese temple, where they burn the fake notes and votives

west facing Tien Duong or the front house

Inside the front house, an altar has many precious Buddha images

images inside the temple

Opposite the front house is a huge Bodhi tree. It was a gift to Ho Chi Minh when Dr. Rajendra Prasad, the then President of India visited Hanoi in 1959.

devotees circumambulating  the tree

Though, not a very big pagoda, it is a must see in Hanoi.

Timings:

0730 - 1130

1330 - 1730

entrance : free

Prasat Banteay Samre , Siem Reap

A temple not frequently visited is Banteay Samre which is around  10 kms from Angkor Wat and half an hour drive from Preah Khan.The drive is a pleasant one past village with shops of bamboo and cane stuff. I had thought of buying something on my return but we took another route to get back to Phnom Penh.

At first glance, the temple looks very similar to Banteay Srie but after some time, you see it is not similar.

The prang in the center may look like the center tower of Angkor Wat but again when you look closely there are many differences.

History:

• The temple of Banteay Samre was built in the 12th century during the reign of King Suryavarman II (1113-1150) and later completed by King Yasovarman II(1160-1166).
• It is said that it was not built by the King himself but by a high ranking official.
• The temple was overgrown with trees. It was restored during the 1930's using anastolysis, the method which aims at restoring a monument to its closest original form.
• the word Banteay Samre translates to Citadel of Samre, named after the Samre clan which inhabited the area.
• the temple is dedicated to Vishnu, and many illustrations prove that.
• It is located just outside the south- east corner of east baray which it made it easier for the king enter the temple from the east processional path
• The monument contained both Hindu and Buddhist reliefs. Buddha images were apparently destroyed in 13th century during the reign of Jayavarman VIII who worshipped Shiva.

The legend of the cucumber King:

The temple of Banteay Samre is associated with the legend of cucumber King. It relates to a farmer who grew very tasty cucumbers. He presented them to the King who liked them very much and ordered the farmer to kill anyone who steals them.

One night, the King longed to have those tasty cucumbers and went to the field. As it was night, the farmer did not recognize the King and killed him. The King had no heir so it was decided that the Royal elephant should chose the new King. The elephant reached to the farmer and knelt down before him, thus proclaiming him to be the King. The Royal servants did not approve of the decision and disrespected him, on which he moved out of the Palace and came to Banteay Samre temple.

Though the real entrance for the King was from the east, but north entrance is the main entrance now.

The layout of the temple is not complicated and it provides a lot of opportunities for taking pictures. I only wish, I had allocated some more time for the temple. I had never anticipated that there would be so many places I would like to have pictures of. The temple has not left any place where you would not want to click a picture.

ground plan by Maurice Glaize

1. outer enclosure 2. corridor 3. balustrades 4. moats 5. sanctum sanctorum 6. libraries 7. inner enclosure

Features of temple:

temple in front

• The ground plan is simple like any temple, an outer wall, inner enclosure, main sanctum, two libraries one on either side to the east of sanctum and one sanctum sanctorum on an elevated platform connected through mandapa.
• Usually, we find moats outside the temple wall but here, one very important difference is the presence of internal moat. The central tower of temple represents Mount Meru, home of gods and the water in moat signifies world of oceans which surrounds it.
• Another difference is the absence of Apsaras throughout the temple.

North entrance:

Each gopura gates on four sides has outer gopura and then an inner gopura. Inner gopura forms the outside wall for second enclosure. Both these gopuras have well preserved lintels and pediments. We entered through his gate as this is the entrance for visitors.

North entrance gopura

the outer pediment

the pediment shows fight between Rama and Ravana, both mounted on their war chariots. Rama's army on east (left) surrounded by monkeys.

second enclosure pediment

Here, Krishna is wrestling with the serpent Kaliya, standing on three-headed Airawat.

East entrance:

The external and internal were in a very bad shape so I skipped taking pictures of those.

most of pediment is lost

 On to the eastern side, is  a walkway guarded by lions.

200 meter walkway in front of eastern entrance

a raised platform, probably formed a bridge

A pool existed on either side of platform which stood on pillars. The pools have now been engulfed by the thick growth of trees

the balustrade runs all the way to East baray or Yasotataka baray which is about 500 meters away

eating coconut to beat the scorching heat

naga balustrade on both sides

platform guarded by lion and naga

raised platform resting on pillars

South entrance:

This pediment is in a better condition.

the outer pediment shows Battle of Lanka

In the upper section, Rama's army fighting Ravana's army. The lower section shows Hanuman fighting Indrajeet (brother of Ravana)

Inner pediment shows a person with rosary sitting in meditation. Over his head, can be seen a woman with folded hands. It can be no other than Shiva in meditative posture and Ganga with folded hands. The force of Ganga was so much that no one except Shiva could have calmed her. He asked her that he shall keep her on his head from where she will flow gently.

West entrance:

Its impossible to understand what the outer pediment portrays. But looks as if Lakshmana is lying unconscious on the lower part of pediment towards the northern side. Probably, the upper part of pediment shows Hanuman getting the Meru mountain which contained the herb needed to revive Lakshmana after his fight with Inderjeet (Meghanaad), son of Ravana.

pediment towards the inner side

Vishnu standing on lotus. Not clear what the other part shows.

We enter the temple through the north entrance. I shall be writing on the inside of temple in my next post.