Altun Ha-- the jewel of Belize, Plaza A

Plenty of Maya temples exist in Belize, Altun Ha being closest to Belize city. Located 31 miles from Belize city, with Belize river flowing on the left, the ride is smooth apart from a small stretch of dusty road which is under construction. The road continues on to Mexico.

Although it is  a small temple in comparision to the other massive  ones but the excavation in one of its temples revealed Belize's national treasure---- the Jade Head.

Right turn from the main road past Lucky Strike village, apparently named after the famous brand of cigarettes, and later a very small village, Rockstone Pond village which is the boundary of Altun Ha brings you to the destination. Altun Ha is Yucatan Mayan name for "rockstone pond". A pond lies a little distance from plaza B.

Settlement in Altun Ha:
Archaeologists believe that the settlement started around 250 B.C. Construction started in 100 A.D. It enjoyed its peak period between 400 to 900 A.D.  By 1000 A.D it was simply abandoned probably due to revolt against the rulers by working class, or an internal revolt.

Many tombs in the Temple of Masonary Altar containing bodies of high priests were looted, the presence of oil and soot justifies this theory.
The place came to attention when a jade pendant was discovered nearby in 1963.

Stratagically situated only 6 miles from the Caribbean Sea, it was an important trade center. Large number of chert quarries have been found in the area.Chert is a hard rock with very sharp edges and was used to make stone tools, weapons and ceremonial items. Soon Altun Ha became the center controlling the chert production.

Apart from chert, jade, obsedian (a natural occuring volcanic glass) were the items exported from here. With export flourishing, people became very rich and enjoyed a wealthy lifestyle.

articles of trade 

As was a practice in Mayan tradition, human sacrifices were also perfromed, especially in the Temple of Sun God or the Temple of Masonry Altars.

A museum is situated on the left side, just before the entrance. I would suggest visiting it so that one can get a basic idea about the Maya life and rituals followed at that time. I found it quite informative. I have put pictures taken from the museum also.

Map indicating the placement of different temples

As the map shows, there are two plazas: A and B. 

Each plaza has temples and signs are put in front of each temple for visitors. 

Plaza A:

Since plaza A is just in front, we made our entry between A7 and A5, the place where arrow points in the map above. It has 7 pyramids or temples. Most Maya temples have a stelae (a stone slab) in front but here, at Altun Ha it is not present.

Right in front are three temples. A1, A2, and A3.

Most of the Maya temples once built were modified and expanded by succeeding generations. Every generation would either add or hide a part of construction by the preceeding generation. That is why Maya temples show construction over several layers and periods.

entering Plaza A

A1 or Temple of The Green Tomb:
This is the most important temple in plaza A. The temple shows construction and modifications over the 5th and 6th century A.D.

Inside this temple a tomb containing either a ruler or a high priest was found  hidden deep.  It dated to 550 A.D. and contained almost 300 jade objects inside. "Green tomb" gets its name from the green color of jade. Apart from jade objects, ornaments, shell jewelry, sting ray spines - which were used in blood letting- skins, cloth, wooden objects, pottery vessels were found.
Mayans produced plenty of books called codices. Remains of one such book was found made of bark paper. The book is concerned with ritual practices, and various Maya gods.

on top of  the temple

excavated portions

A2 and A3:

 A2

This temple is connected to A1. It was once a free building.

A3

view of plaza B and Temple of Masonry Altar from A3.

view from A1

A3 has broad steps leading to the top. It is almost like A1. The steps are plastered and form  platforms in between.

A4

A4 is on the south-east side of plaza A and does not have any structure on top of it. It probably served as a boundary between the two plazas.

A5, A6, A7:
Nothing much is known about these structures. Infact, the platfroms on top are so small and narrow that it does not seem that anything important used to happen there.

A5, a huge all spice peppercorn tree grows on the mound

Our guide told us that his grandmother who is a Mayan, used to go to forest to get allspice tree leaves. They used to chew them in case of a toothache.

climbing A6

A6 is the tallest structure in Altun Ha but it remains under a huge mound. Probably further excavation might reveal something important one day!

climb to the top to get an excellent view of Plaza B

You get a good view of plaza A and B from here.

A7

A7 was just a mound.

The Rock Pond:
Before climbing up the Temple of Masonry Altars we proceeded to the pond. On the left side of temple, a track leads to pond. A 10 minute walk on cobbled path with Cuhune palm trees on either side leads to the pond.

 path with cuhune palms

Cuhune palm was very much valued by Mayans and can be see all over Belize. The leaves being fire proof were used in thatching houses.

The most sought after part is heart of the palm. It is soft and the very delicious.

Cuhune nuts

Cuhune oil is extracted from these nuts and is used as an edible oil. It is a much preferred oil for cooking but being more expensive very few people use it. The extraction of oil is more labor intensive as compared to other oils. Bottles of this oil are seen on the side of road on way to Altun Ha.
The huge palm fronds were used to make roof for houses.

The pond or reservoir supplied water to inhabitants of Altun Ha. The pond is said to be cemented with a yellow clay to stop seepage of water into the soil.
The water when we visited, was green and murky and it was difficult to see the floor of reservoir.

We watched the birds for sometime and then retraced our steps to Plaza B and to the most important temple in Altun Ha, The Temple of Masonry Altars.

Harrisons' Cave, Barbados

Located in St. Thomas parish of Barbados, Harrison Caves are some of the the country's most beautiful places, attracting plenty of tourists each year.

The caves were formed by natural erosion caused by weak carbonic acid formed by water that combined with free carbondioxide to form weak carbonic acid. This water starts permeating through the rocks of limestone dissolving and carrying calcium carbonate along with it. After sometime, the carbondioxide separates, leaving the salt behind. This salt forms the formations inside a cave.

entrance to Harrison's cave

Tony Mason

Tony Mason grew up in the parish of Saint Thomas. He along with Ole Sorenson, a Dutch explorer entered the cave and discovered the marvels inside in 1970.

an array of stalgmites

Stalactites are formed when the water drips from the top of a cave. The minerals present in water precipate forming icicle like structures. They are usually conical in structure.

Stalagmites are formed on the surface of caves when the water drops on them, minerals precipitate. They usually have a rounded top.

When the stalagmites and stalactites meet, they form a column. One such column is about to be formed in the extreme right side of the above picture.

new stalactites forming

Explorer's pool:
This pool was the original entrance to the caves.

The pool is 8 feet deep and has a ladder for emergency exit. See straight in front for the ladder.

Cascade fall:
The fall is majestic and forms a pool 9 feet deep.

The water falls from a height of 40 feet through a small opening. Water empties into the ocean after this.

Great hall:
This is the cavern with the largest surface area, of 50 square feet. Looking above one is able to see the formations at different levels.

Moving ahead we see a pool and a cave.

a pool and cave

flowing water

Flowstones:
Flowstones are calcite or calcium carbonate deposits which are formed by the calcium carbonate deposits left by water which is precipated during flow and leaves behind precipitated minearls.

They are usually formed on the sides of caves.

Most of them look like ice on the walls. They are very soft and powdery and easily succumb to touch.

Sometimes the water deposits form draperies on the side of walls forming beautiful folds. 

a chandelier formation

A beautiful formation of chandelier which is formed by a cluster of limestone deposits. Experts say that it takes almost 120 years to form a cubic centimeter of this formation. One can imagine how many years this one must have taken.

Flowstones forming a "popcorns"

In this formation, small nodules are formed which cling together to form a big mass.

Sometimes, such caves are seen where there is no formation of stalagtites or stalacmites like in the above picture. In such cases the rock is impervious and the water cannot seep inside.
The caves are situated at 700 feet above sea level and are fed by a gully. Most of the water flows out into the ocean.

trams which take you on the tour

our excellent tour guide, Colleen

Opening hours:

0800 to 1600 hours

Entry fee:

Adults: BDS $50 or US$ 25, residents of Barbados: BDS$ 25

Shri Venugopala Swamy temple and Hathiram Baba, Tirupati

Shri Venugopala Swamy temple is about 5 kms. from Tirupati temple and is the first temple one sees on the left side while going towards Paapvinasam temple. The temple is managed by Hathiram Baba Matha.

entrance to temple

Going up towards the temple you pass through small souvenir shops, stalls selling bhajias, coffee, buttermilk etc.

As you reach up, there is an entry ticket of INR 2.00 per person.

entry ticket

Built during the Hoysalas, the temple reflects their architecture, with an absence of gopurams.

temple view

Avoid going in the evenings, if you want to take good pictures. The setting sun casts a glare on camera and its impossible to take good pictures.

third incarnation of Lord Vishnu: Varaha avatar with Lakshmi on the roof of temple

beautiful image of Varaha avatar

Inside the temple there is a beautiful image of Lord Krishna with a flute and He stands in front of a cow. Rukmani and Satyabhama, his consorts can be seen on both sides.

Apart from the temple of Venugopapala or Krishna, this place holds importance because of the samadhi of Haathiram baba.
But who was Hathiram baba? Honestly, I had never heard his name till I went to Tirupati. We have so many saints who have lived unknown to the world.

Hathiram Baba Matha:

Bahavaji or Hathiram baba, a devout Vishnu  and of Lord Ram. He was born into a Vaishnvite family in  Nagaur, Rajasthan.
Not much is known about his early days but he came to Tirumala at the beckoning of the Lord. Here he meditated and it is said that the Lord used to visit his room at night to play dice with him. The entrance gate to temple depicts a scene of game between the two.

entrance gate to Venugopala Swamy temple, see the Lord and Bhavaji playing chaupar

But why name Hathiram Baba? Isn't the name a bit strange? It is said that when Baba visited Lord Venkateshwar temple at Tirupati, he was so awestricken by the Lord's beauty that he could not remove his eyes off him. He decided to stay on in Tirupati and constructed a Muth, a hermitage. He used to visit the temple everyday, sitting in a corner and looking at the Lord continuously for long hours. This continued for quite some time. Priests noticed this and thought it was a bit strange for a person to be constantly gazing at the Lord, so they reported the matter to the authorities. Next day when he came, he was pushed out of the temple. He pleaded with people not to separate him from the Lord. He was asked not to enter the temple again.

Bhavaji returned to his mutt dejected. He cried pleading to the Lord, oh Lord, why am I being punished for taking your darshans? What have I done and how do I live without seeing you? What more do I want than to just see you. But next morning Bhavaji was at the temple and was pushed out again.

Saddened by this, Bhavaji returned to his mutt, cried and started playing chaupar, a board game played with pawns and cowry shells which act as dice. He sat on one end and imagined the Lord at the other end. So he threw the cowry shells once for his turn and the other for his Lord's turn. Tired he went off to sleep. He heard a voice asking Bahavaji to get up and when he woke he saw Lord Ram
standing there, Bhavaji rubbed his eyes, thinking it to be his imagination but the Lord said, it is me, your Ram, get up, I have come to play chaupar with you. His happiness knew no bounds, he quickly spread the game and defeated the Lord in the game. Lord asked for a boon and Bhavaji said, I don't need anything, no material pleasures. I am blessed seeing your viraatrupa, divine form, I am satisfied with just looking at you and need a little place at your feet.

After that it became a regular practice for the Lord to come to Bhavaji from Anandnilayam (sanctum sanctorum) after the temple doors were shut for the night. They would both play chaupar till it would be time for the temple doors to open. One day, when they were both playing, they heard a noise outside so the Lord asked Bhavaji to go out and see. He went out and seeing no one came inside to see that the Lord had gone. As he was packing the game, he saw a diamond necklace. He kept it safely thinking that he would return it to the Lord when he comes the following night.

Next day as the temple doors were opened, the head priest saw that the diamond necklace was missing from the Lord. He brought the matter to the notice of temple authorities and most of them suspected Bhavaji as he used to gaze at the Lord constantly, thinking he used to look at the jewels adorning the image.

While Bhavaji was waiting for the Lord to come he heard people calling out his name. He went outside and was surprised when people went inside his room to search. He asked the reason and they told him about the missing necklace. Bhavaji went inside and brought the necklace. They were now fully convinced that he had stolen it and took him to the temple authorities. Bhavaji told them that the Lord comes every night to play chaupar with him. Lord comes to you? they asked and however much Bhavaji tried to prove his innocence, they thought he was fooling them. They even suspected his devotion implying that was he more devoted than they were.

Next day he was presented in front of the then ruling king, Krishnadevaraya. The King after hearing Bhavaji's narration felt he was innocent but he had no proof so he thought of testing him. He asked his guards to put Bhavaji in a room with loads of sugarcane, which Bhavaji had to finish by day break. If he were to succeed in this task he would be considered innocent and set free.

Bhavaji entered the cell, which was surrounded with mounds of sugarcane. He sat quietly in a corner unperturbed praying to God. Oh, Ram, you know I am innocent, I am not afraid if I fail the test, but they are testing you and your presence. Praying, Bahavaji went into deep meditation.
After sometime, unknown to Bhavaji, an elephant appeared in the room and after finishing all sugarcane, woke Bhavaji with his trunk. When Bhavaji saw all the finished sugarcane he came to know that the elephant could be no other than his Lord. He fell on the elephant's feet saying and crying, oh Lord you took the trouble of coming to my rescue and proving me innocent. The elephant blessed Bhavaji and trumpeting loudly crashed open the doors of the room and ran out, disappearing in the distance.

The guards outside saw the elephant and ran to the King. Soon the temple authorities and King hearing all this came to the site. They heard Bhavaji only saying "Hathiram" and gazing in the direction where the elephant went. When asked what Hathiram was, Bhavaji said that his Ram had come in the form of Hathi, an elephant to prove him innocent. Everyone begged for his pardon and Bhavaji was absolved of his charges.

The King asked Bhavaji if he would become the Pradhan Archak, head priest of the temple which he gladly accepted as it gave him ample opportunity to serve and look at the Lord. Bhavaji is said to sit outside the temple gates and ask people to drop some money before entering the temple. That is how the practise of hundi came into being. Hundi can be said  a place where a donation box or pot is kept into which the devotees offer money to God.

Since Bhavaji's Lord came to save him in the form of an elephant, he came to be fondly known as "Hathiram Baba". It is said that Bhavaji liked to see his Lord as a child (Baal: बाल), so the deity is often referred as Balaji.
He served as the Pradhan Archak for many years and with the increase in number of devotees, Bhavaji found it difficult to meditate so decided to enter into a Jeeva samadhi, or becoming one with the almighty and merging into Him.

Samadhi of Hathiram Baba just outside the exit gate of the temple

His body was cremated near Venugopala Swamy temple. The samadhi stands and daily pooja is performed here.

From 1843 to 1932 Hathiram Baba mutt managed the Tirupati temple, after which it was handed to Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanam, a trust which was established that year and manages everyday working and administration of Tirupati now.

priest giving "Ram patti", a green leaf to everyone

A priest was giving a green leaf to everyone saying it is Ram patti or Ram leaf. I had never tasted it earlier. He asked me to eat it and it was somewhat sweet and sour. I do not know the english equivalent to that leaf.

In front of the main temple is a small Hanuman temple. This picture with the priest came out too blurred.

The image of Hanuman had Rupee 1 coin stuck all over it. Even the mace had coins on it.

After paying respect to Hathiram Baba samadhi, I set back to Tirupati.

Akashaganga Teertham, Tirupati

Around 5 kms from Tirupati is the Akashganga teertham. The appearance of this place seems to be a miracle.

Mythologically, Ganga is supposed to originate from Lord Shiv's dreadlocks but here, at Akashganga it flows from Lord Venkateshwara's feet.

the entrance gate, I could not avoid the leaves of tree

a close up, Goddess Ganga

signage just before going down the stairs

Tirumala Nambi and the origin of Akashganga: Tirumala Nambi was the maternal uncle of Ramanujacharya who initiated the latter to the deeper meaning of Ramayana. He was the head priest at Tirupati. As a service to the Lord he decided to get water everyday from Paapnasam or Papavinasam teertham which was at a distance of around 8 kms, to bathe the deity. 

He had a small place near the temple and used to live there. Even in his old age, when he had difficulty carrying water, he did not stop himself from service to the Lord. Lord Venkateshwara felt his  agony of old age. He took the form of a hunter and came near Tirumala Nambi addressing him as "tatha" (grandfather) asking for some water to drink.

How do I give the water meant for the Lord to him? Thinking this, he refused to give water to the boy. As he moved forward, the boy followed him and threw a pebble onto the pot and water trickled out of it. He quenched his thirst and soon the water in the pot finished. Seeing this, Tirumala Nambi was very disappointed. He told the boy, how do I get water again? I am old and there would be delay in the Lord's service.

The boy, who was infact Lord Venkateshwara himself, told Tirumala Nambi, don't worry, I shall show a place nearby from where you can fetch water. Saying so, he took a bow and shot it on a nearby hillock. Water gushed out from the place where the bow struck. Get water for daily service of the Lord from here, having said this, the boy disappeared.

Only after the boy disappeared, did Tirumala Nambi realise that it was no one else than the Lord himself. This place came to be known as the Akashganga. After this water for daily abhishek for the Lord came from this place. Now a pipeline carries the water to Tirupati.

Sri Anjaneya or Lord Hanuman

Going down the stairs on the right side is seen an image of Sri Anjaneya.

Going down might prove a challenge for physically unfit but it is not that difficult a climb.

gushing water

Again on the right side is Sri Anjaneya temple and straight ahead is a chute through which water of Akashganga comes out. Devotees come with bottles and containers to fill them with the holy water.

The water further flows down into a pond. Devotees can splash the water on their head, wash their feet but bathing here is only reserved for the Tirumala Nambi family. All others are prohibited from doing that.

The water flows throughout the year coming with more force during the monsoons.

Indian giant squirrel

You may, with luck, see an Indian giant squirrel or the Malabar giant squirrel lurking amongst the trees. The species here is reddish brown to dark brown, with a furry tail.