Friday, October 25, 2013

Bat Trang, the pottery village near Hanoi

Bat Trang is a small village, around 30 minutes drive from Hanoi. As  we crossed the Red River, so named because it looks red with the reddish brown silt it carries, our guide told us that the river comes through China. Sadly, it was a dry season in Hanoi and we saw a "normal" looking river!!
Going across the Red River
The other end of Red River gives and entirely different picture of Vietnam.
I was unable to take picture of banana plantains which were on the other side of road.
Few more minutes of the drive and we see a beautiful temple. The architecture is so different from the normal Vietnamese architecture one sees in Hanoi.

We soon see areas with huge stacks of pottery and understand we have reached our destination.  The bus turned into a narrow street and behold, there is pottery, pottery and pottery everywhere.
I saw a place with potter's wheel and knowing that it was a potter's workshop, went inside.
One person was relaxing with a diyobaad This, I was told  was very similar to hukkah or shisha in working principle.  The huge circular pot has water.  Tobacco is put it the small hole, ignited and the person inhales the smoke through a pipe. Notice the long pipe from his mouth to the diyobaad.
There were plenty of potter's wheel.  The craftsman obliged us by demonstrating how to make a small pot. He put a mound of clay on the wheel . With one hand he maneuvered the clay dough, and with other hand revolved the wheel.
He created a small pot in no time.

It all looked so easy till the time I tried it myself. I confidently sat on the small seat. The start was not bad but  suddenly, it went losing its shape and collapsed  :(
trying at my hand at the potter's wheel !
The ceramic wares undergo a long journey before they land for sale.
The ceramic clay is thoroughly kneaded and de-aired properly.  Clay is then put on the wheel and desired article made out.
          potter with his wheel                           ready to be painted                       colors ready

After the articles have dried, each piece is individually painted.
                                                free hand drawings                                              painted wares                                                                                                                                       
It is then dipped in a special glaze and left to dry.
         Now, the baking is done in kilns at very high temperature from 1100 degree C to 1300 degrees C for three nights and three days.  By this time, the glaze which they say is a specialty of Vietnam is set and is ready to reach us.
all packed to be dispatched 
I bought a wind chime for my home and the purchase was packed in this bag, isn't it so eco-friendly?

While, on my window shopping spree, I met this wonderful woman and I wanted to take her picture. She very smilingly obliged and also gifted me this piece which I have placed at my home temple.                  
We did not understand each other and communicated in sign language. While I write this, I am reminded of this lady whom I shall never meet again, but her gift shall always bring sweet memories of this trip.                

Does a kind gesture and love need any language?                                                                                                          

6 comments:

  1. The pottery is so beautiful. I hope the art does not die

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  2. thanks for this wonderful post

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  3. hi Vandhana... awesome adventure u r having & love your recollection of it! :-)

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