Durbar square of Basantpur is one of the three squares in Kathmandu valley. The place has a collection of beautifully sculptured temples, each as beautiful as the other. Devi Taleju Bhawani has been the clan goddess of Malla kings. Bhairav is the protector deity in Nepal, so you definitely see a Taleju Bhawani temple and Bhairav in other durbar squares as well.
The square has as many as 50 temples in its fold. I seem to have missed few of the temples. Maybe, in my next trip there, I will make it a point to cover those and update this post.
Kumari Bahal or Ghar:
This building built by Jaya Prakash Malla in 1757 houses the Kumari or the Living Goddess of Katmandu. In my earlier posts on Nepal, I have often been mentioning Devi Taleju. Kumari is considered the the living form of this Goddess. Some Hindus in India worship 8 prepubercent girls representing the eight forms of Devi Taleju Bhawani, Nepali name for Devi Durga, on the eighth day of the Dussehra festival. In Nepal too, the Kumari is worshipped on special occassions, though in Kathmandu she is worshipped throughout the year.
Let me give you a brief account of Kumari. There are around 11 Kumaris throughout Nepal, but the Royal Kumari of Kathmandu is said to be the most important. Girls between the ages of 3-7 from the Shakya clan (the clan of Lord Buddha) undergo a very rigorous selection process. Preliminary selection is based on 32 physical characteristics. Some features taken into account are:
After the final selection and rituals, the Goddess enters the Kumari Ghar where she stays till she attains puberty. She then abdicates her title and leads a worldly life.
The entrance to Kumari Ghar is guarded by two snow lions on either side.
In Kathmandu, Kumari makes a public appearance mostly everyday at designated time unless some unforeseen circumstances arise.
We reached the place early and had to wait for quarter of an hour to have a glimpse of the Kumari.
You see three windows in the above picture. At 5 PM, the Kumari dressed in red clothes made her appearance in the centre window. Everyone was forbidden to take any pictures and not to make any eye contact with her. One might find it strange to see a young innocent girl of nine years sitting and blessing the people but many people come to seek her blessings. She stayed for just 4-5 minutes and then went away.
Above is Saraswati yantra (mystical diagram). Saraswati is the goddess of learning.
The courtyard has intricately carved wooden windows and toranas. Have a look at the enlarged sections below.
If, you observe the above carving carefully, you would see Bhairav and sixteen armed Devi Taleju. Bhairav is considered the protector of Kumari.
See the magnified view of balcony and windows.
Kasthamandap:
Kastha (काष्ठ ), meaning wood and mandap (मण्डप ) a canopy. So, Kashthamandap means a
wooden shelter or canopy. It is also known as Maru Sattal. This three tiered pagoda styled wooden structure said to be made from a single Sal tree. No iron nails have been used in building it.
An idol of sitting Gorakhnath is seen in the centre. The name of the city, Kathmandu is derived from this temple.
There is a street which separates Kashtamandap and Maru Ganesh temple. Very close to the vehicle of Lord Ganesha is a perfect example of intermingling of Hinduism and Buddhism.
Just behind Kasthamandap a very small but extremely beautiful is this temple of Lord Ganesha. It is considered one of the four most important Ganesha temple in Kathmandu vallley.
I had problem taking the picture of temple in it's entirety, so have taken the deity and below is the torana over the door.
One very interesting feature of this temple is that it lacks any pinnacle, a very important part of any temple. Maru in Newari means "does not exist" which means a temple without a pinnacle. Opposite to the temple, across the street sits Lord Ganesha's mount, the mouse.
Maju Deval:
With its white sides along the stairs, it indeed catches your attention. It is a good place to sit and observe the activities below.
This temple is dedicated to Shiva.
The temple was built by queen Radhilakshmi after the death of her husband King Pratap Malla.
The white small temple in front of Maju Deval is Kamdeva temple. Kamdeva is the god of love. Next to Maju Deval is the Narayana temple.
I spent some time on top of steps enjoying the Teej festival.
Shiva Parvati temple:
Very close to Maju Deval, is Shiva Parvati temple. Parvati is the consort of Lord Shiva.
Notice carefully, Shiva and Parvati can be seen on a balcony.
Don't the God and Goddess look so nice, as if watching and keeping an eye on the activities of durbar square!
Bhagwati temple:
This three storeyed temple gets overlooked with the number of tangkha painting shops at its base. It earlier had an image of Vishnu but it got stolen and after that image of Durga has been placed.
I had taken the above picture from Maju Deval. It gives you an idea how the temples are placed.
Krishna temple:
This octagonal Krishna temple was built by Pratap Malla in memory of his two wives.
I enter Hanuman Dhoka now and my post seems to be unending. There is so much to write. Let me finish this post and continue from Hanuman Dhoka in my next post.
The square has as many as 50 temples in its fold. I seem to have missed few of the temples. Maybe, in my next trip there, I will make it a point to cover those and update this post.
Kumari Bahal or Ghar:
This building built by Jaya Prakash Malla in 1757 houses the Kumari or the Living Goddess of Katmandu. In my earlier posts on Nepal, I have often been mentioning Devi Taleju. Kumari is considered the the living form of this Goddess. Some Hindus in India worship 8 prepubercent girls representing the eight forms of Devi Taleju Bhawani, Nepali name for Devi Durga, on the eighth day of the Dussehra festival. In Nepal too, the Kumari is worshipped on special occassions, though in Kathmandu she is worshipped throughout the year.
Let me give you a brief account of Kumari. There are around 11 Kumaris throughout Nepal, but the Royal Kumari of Kathmandu is said to be the most important. Girls between the ages of 3-7 from the Shakya clan (the clan of Lord Buddha) undergo a very rigorous selection process. Preliminary selection is based on 32 physical characteristics. Some features taken into account are:
- the girl should have black eyes and hair
- she should have a complete set of 20 teeth
- she should not have had any loss of blood
- her skin should be unblemished
- big eye lashes
- soft and clear voice
After the final selection and rituals, the Goddess enters the Kumari Ghar where she stays till she attains puberty. She then abdicates her title and leads a worldly life.
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| Kumari Ghar |
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| the courtyard of Kumari Ghar (house) |
We reached the place early and had to wait for quarter of an hour to have a glimpse of the Kumari.
You see three windows in the above picture. At 5 PM, the Kumari dressed in red clothes made her appearance in the centre window. Everyone was forbidden to take any pictures and not to make any eye contact with her. One might find it strange to see a young innocent girl of nine years sitting and blessing the people but many people come to seek her blessings. She stayed for just 4-5 minutes and then went away.
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| Saraswati Yantra |
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| sculptured wood |
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| wooden windows and balcony |
Kasthamandap:
Kastha (काष्ठ ), meaning wood and mandap (मण्डप ) a canopy. So, Kashthamandap means a
wooden shelter or canopy. It is also known as Maru Sattal. This three tiered pagoda styled wooden structure said to be made from a single Sal tree. No iron nails have been used in building it.
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| Gorakhnath |
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| enlarged view |
Buddha on a Yoni
Maru Ganesh (मरु गणेश ) or Ashok Binayak temple:Just behind Kasthamandap a very small but extremely beautiful is this temple of Lord Ganesha. It is considered one of the four most important Ganesha temple in Kathmandu vallley.
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| Lord Ganesha |
Trailokyamohan Narayan temple:
One doesn't need to guess that the temple belongs to Narayan or Vishnu.
A stone Garuda humbly sits in front of the temple
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| Kneeling Garuda in front of temple |
With its white sides along the stairs, it indeed catches your attention. It is a good place to sit and observe the activities below.
This temple is dedicated to Shiva.
Shiva Parvati temple:
Very close to Maju Deval, is Shiva Parvati temple. Parvati is the consort of Lord Shiva.
Bhagwati temple:
This three storeyed temple gets overlooked with the number of tangkha painting shops at its base. It earlier had an image of Vishnu but it got stolen and after that image of Durga has been placed.
Krishna temple:
I enter Hanuman Dhoka now and my post seems to be unending. There is so much to write. Let me finish this post and continue from Hanuman Dhoka in my next post.
