A historical place, 64 kms from Thiruvananthpuram , on way to Kanyakumari is Padmanabhapuram palace, the seat of the rulers of Kingdom of Travancore. Earlier known as Kalkulam Palace, it is located in the village of Padmanabhapuram in Tamil Nadu.
Though, located in Tamil Nadu, it comes under the jurisdiction of Kerala.
The palace is over 400 years old and spans an area of 6.5 acres
It has 14 different independent structures inside it which include Kottarms (Palaces), Pura (Houses), Malikas(Mansions), Vilasams( Mansions), Mandapams(large halls).
It is one of the largest wooden palaces in Asia
Being situated at the foot of Veli Hills of Western Ghats provided protection to the palace against any attack by enemies.
History of Palace:
- Padmanabhapuram was the capital of Venad Kingdom. The present palace was originally built in the 1601 by Iravi Varma Kulsekhara Perumal (1592- 1609) and was named Kalkulam.
- Venad Kingdom took over from Chera dyanasty after its fall around 12th century. It became a powerful Travancore dynasty under the reign of King Anizham Thirunal Marthanda Varma (1706- 1758).
- Marthanda Varma expanded the kingdom into a major regional power till it came under British protectorate after treaties in 1788 and 1805. He also changed the name from Kalkulam to Padmanabhapuram.
- Under the British, Travancore became a prominent princely state till it merged with independent India in 1949.
Architecture of palace:
The palace is built in Kerala style of architecture. It used locally available materials. Stones are used in the palace foundation and pillars in the ground floor. Wooden beams and pillars are seen on the top floors.
The materials used for floors is not cement but a mixture of lime, jaggery, burnt coconut shell ash, egg whites. Surprisingly, the floor has stood the test of time with floor which shines till today.
The different buildings in the palace were connected to each other by corridors.
Mukhya Vaathil:
These massive doors have metal spikes to offer protection against enemies.
Before one proceeds to see inside of palace, a very nominal ticket needs to be bought by everyone.
The King held discussions here on the first floor with his ministers and took important decisions.
Nalukettu, an open courtyard around which rooms are spread out
King's bed, Sapramancha Kattil, a four poster bed made from 64 types of medicinal timber
"Ambari" or howdah is actually the seat part on elephant's back used for safaris. The building has been constructed on the shape of an ambari. The Ambari Mukhappu is a standing example of the outstanding craftsmanship of Travancore wood carving.
Homappura kulam
Within the room, on the side is a wooden room with peep holes. This was used by the Royal household to enjoy the performances.
Near the shrine, are Shalabanjika (celestial women) figures with lamps in their hands.
Thekkae Kottaram or the South Palace and :
A road separates Thekke Kottarm with the main palace building.
It is built with wood and carvings. The steps lead to bathing ghat.
A flight of steps lead to the main bathing area. The water is not very clean now.
Mukhya Vaatil or the main gate open into forecourt of palace.
view from inside the palace
No footwear is permitted inside. You take off your footwear and the person gives you a token
Poomukha malika and palace with Veli Hills in the background
There is a small patch of green grass in the center of forecourt. Inside it is a formation of grass resembling a conch. The conch was a royal emblem of Travancore Kingdom.
Poomukha Malika and Padippura:
The double storeyed building which we see from Mukhya Vaathil is Poomukha Malika. It opens into Padippura, which is a two storey gateway which served as entrance to the teak wood palace complex.
Poomukha malika leading to double storeyed Padippura which served as the reception hall for King's royal guests and officials.
The entrance on the ground floor has four carved pillars leading to upper floor.
carved pillar
On its northern side is the Mani Meda.
Mani meda
a bay window in natamalika
The Padippura has natamalika, which is actually the upper floor. It has a viewing bay window above the entrance. This allowed the royal women to observe the courtyard events.
This part of complex was built between 1590 and early 1800. It also connects different sections of the palace.
Mani Meda or the clock tower:
On the northern side of palace, near Poomukhamalika is the clock tower which has a Roman numeral clock. It is said that a blacksmith travelled all the way to Spain to learn the art of watch making. Constructed during the reign of Swathi Thirunal Rama Varma, the clock functions on weights and pulley mechanism.
Weights are suspended from a height of about 9 meters from regulator. Heavy pendulum regulate the functioning of clock. Within the tower, a flight of wooden steps led to the topmost level where the machine room is located.
Mani Meda is 300 years old and still keeps the time. The bell of clock could be heard for 3 kms.
Going up the first floor is a room on the right is a reception hall.
The first thing which catches your attention as one enters the room is a lamp hanging from ceiling. It is no ordinary lamp but is the Kerala style bronze lamp, Kuthira Villaku.this one which has a hanging oil lamp in the center.
Kuthira Villaku
Kuthira Vilkku is a hanging oil lamp. A galloping horse with rider is on one side. The purpose of this figure is to keep and balance the lamp straight in such a way that no oil spills out.
The lamp is made skillfully that whichever direction the lamp is turned, it returns to its original position.
The roof of the hall is made of teak with flower motifs.
original stone pillar with decorated woodwork
floor made of coconut shells, lime
Mantrasala:The King held discussions here on the first floor with his ministers and took important decisions.
Mantrasala, or the meeting hall or King's Council Chamber
Mantrasala has only one projection and eleven kilivathil. Kilivathil is a tiny window, the shutters of which are decorated with mosaic work.There are rows of chairs which are arranged around the room for the king to address his ministers.
The roof is supported by wooden pillars. The shining floor is made of a mixture of lime, jaggery, coconut shells, egg whites, sand.
note the stained glass windows
The wooden louvres permit air and light inside the room and also maintain the temperatures.
Valiya Oottupura and Homappura:
The Kings of Travancore were known for their generous hospitality. This two storeyed building served free meals for 2,000 people in this huge dining hall everyday.
Ceremonial feasts were held on auspicious occassions. The first floor is supported by wooden columns. The ground floor however has stone columns.
niche for placing lamp
Huge Chinese jars
roof of the hall supported by wood pillars
waiting to find a place
antiques lined up, to find suitable place
Adjacent to Saraswati temple is the Homappura, which has a sacred tank for religious rituals.
Thai Kottaram:
Constructed in the 16th, century, it is the oldest structure in the complex. The entrance opens to Ekantha Mandapam, a hall used for meditation and religious activities.
The structure also includes Veppinmuttu Kottaram (women quarters). This served as private residential quarters for women of Travancore royal family.
Kannithoonu (pillar)decorated pillar
The highlight of this hall is a carved stone pillar which supports the beams. This pillar is carved from a single piece of jackfruit tree. It is strategically placed to support the ceiling
wooden ceiling with lotus flowers
ceiling
shelf on a wall
door, opens to inside
Nalukettu from above
On the western of inner verandah, is black door. This was an underground escape route linking Thai Kottaram to Charode Palace (now no longer exists) which was an ancient royal residence. The other end of tunnel was clearly visible amongst the ruins of Charode Palace but no one dared to go ahead. A group of people somehow gathered enough courage and started from the Charode side. They reached near the Valliyar river and abandoned their onward journey as the other end was locked from Padmanabhapuram Palace end. It is said that there are flight of steps from this side.
According to legend, Charode Palace was used as a hideout by Marthanda Varma when Ettulvettil Pillamar, leaders of the Eight Houses.
King's mother room
Paintings of life on Krishna on the wall
bed used by the King's mother
Royal toilet
another royal toilet
Ayudhappura - Armoury and watch tower:
The palace of armoury with many historical weapons. The building of armory has more length and less breadth.
The place does not have any windows. At the northern side is a watch tower from where any activity could be seen.
no windows
Uppirikka Malika:
Towards the northwest of Thai Kottaram is the sacred place in the complex. It has a pagoda style roof. The ground floor houses the royal treasury, the first floor has the king's bedroom which connected to Anthapuram or women quarters. The second floor had "Ekanta Mandapam", which was King's prayer room. The topmost floor was deicated to Lord Padmanabha who was their protector deity.
teak wood ceiling
A window looks out of the room from where the king could see what is happening below
chair gifted by Chinese to the king
This chair which can be seen very near to the king's bed was gifted to former king by Chinese merchants.
teak wood carving on the ceiling
This top floor was the king's private chamber which is adorned with murals.
A poster bed of Shree Padmanabha Swamy and the mural room (picture from the museum)
Topmost floor of Uppirika Malika with mural all around. The room is not open to public now.Ambari Mukhappu:
This place was reserved for the king, He would see chariot races during festivals and also appear before public on special occassions.
The steps are adorned by two carved elephant heads. There are five windows from which the rulers used to look to performances below in the forecourt.
Gallery of paintings:
There is a line of paintings. These are just a few pictures I took.
It is a double stories building and was the reception hall for foreign officials, royal guests and dignatories.
Tipu Sultan was defeated by the Kingdom of Travancore at the Battle of Nedumkotta (Travanccore Lines) on 29th December, 1789, during the Third Anglo-Mysore War.
The palace was rebuilt and expanded around 1750 by this King
The Dutch East India Company forces led by Admiral Eustachius De Lannoy surrenders to King Marthanda Varma of Travancore on 10th August, 1741 after the Battle of Colachel.
Indra Vilasom:
This part of the palace was constructed for accomodation of foreign tourists and dignatories who came to visit the king. It has not been constructed in ethnic Kerala style and the influence of foreign style reflects in the architecture.
picture from museum
The ground floor has high pillars which lead the way to the upper floor.
Natakshala or the dance hall or the Navrathri Mandapam:
On the northwest corner of the complex is Navrathri Mandapam dedicated to Goddess Saraswati.
The construction of this building was done by the King Anizham Thirumal Marthanda Varma (1728-1758).
King Swathy Thiruamal (1829-1846) was a great patron of music and dance but also a talented composer. He expanded the mandapam. Being interested in music, his compositions are still a part of Carnatic music.
The mandapam measures 22 meters x 6 meters and has a height of 4.5 meters.
It was primary venue for royal dances and music during the Navrathri festivals. The performances were later moved to Thiruvanthapuram by Swati Thirunal
The idol was taken in a procession to Thiruvanthapuram during the Navrathri festival.
Though the annual formal Navrathri festival now is celebrated in Thiruvanthapuram, the Mandapam is still well preserved.
temple dedicated to Goddess Saraswati
Adjoining the temple is the Natakshala. One door of the temple opens to Natakshala where the performances were held.
Homappura:
This is a single storey building where prayers and religious offerings were made. The Homappura kulam, a tank in which the king used to take a ceremonial bath before par taking in any religious rituals. Homappura is strategically situated with bathing pond in its north and Saraswathi temple to its east.
entrance to Saraswati temple, Shalabanjika holding a lamp on the side
According to sources, the idol of Goddess Saraswati was given to a ruler of Venad by Tamil poet Kambar during the 12th century.
During the first three days of Navrathri, the Devi is worshipped as Sarawati, who is the goddess of fine arts and learning. The next days goddess Lakshmi, who is worshipped for money, and the last three days as Durga, the fierce form of the goddess is worshipped. Special ragas are sung on these three days.
Top artists from South India used to perform for the Goddess.
Where most of the complex has wooden pillars, the pillars here in the Mandapam have monolith granite pillars.
The shining black floor is made of a mixture of lime, egg white, jaggery and other vegetable extracts. Burnt coconut shells powder gave the floor a black color.
The polished dance floor looked like a mirror and was known as "Kannadithara or the Mirror floor"
elephants on both sides of entrance
Dance hall with shining black floor
room for royal women to enjoy the dances
the wooden screen with peep holes
Pillars:
The carved granite pillars reflect Vijayanagara style. Here, the top of the pillars are topped with hanging lotus buds.
dancing form on pillar
lotus petals on this column
lotus buds
At the other end of mandapam, is a beautifully carved wooden screen
close up of screen
Thekkae Kottaram also known as Nirappura, used to be the residential block. It is south of palace. It has the main residential unit (thai veedu), worship place (thekkath), bathing area (kulappura).
The area is mainly a museum where things used in those days are kept.
Kitchen area:
This area has things which were used in everyday cooking. Few things are still in use.
stone grinder
vats for storing water
wet grinder
Here, soaked lentils or rice is put in the hole and it is made into a smooth paste with the help of stone pestle.
Kulappura:
This is the common bath area. It is a traditional, covered bathing palace which is in the Southern Palace.
bathing pond and changing room on the side
On the south of palace is the museum which has a collection of articles which were used during those days.
Timings of palace: 09:00 A.M to 12:30 P.M.. It closes for lunchtime and again opens from 02:00 P.M. to 04: 30 P.M.. It remains closed on Mondays
Entrance fee:
There is a nominal fee for entrance.
Adults (Indian) : ₹ 50/-
Adults (foreigner) : ₹ 500/-
Children (Indian) : ₹ 10/-
Children (foreigner) : ₹ 100/-
Before we venture into the museum, all I can say is that the palace is worth a visit. In case, you are not short of time, spend more time to see places in more detail.
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