Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Monasteries and temples in and around Swayambhunatha

I come back home with a bounty of knowledge after I have visited any place. Learning never ceases to disinterest me and I realize everytime that I hardly know anything.
When I started writing my last post on Swayambhunatha, never did I know that it would become an unending post! There was so much to write. Every picture had so much I could write about. This post is in continuation to the last one where I just mentioned the stupa.

Apart from the main stupa, there are many monasteries and temples around the stupa. Instead of segregating them into temples and monasteries, I thought I shall proceed in the order they in which they are located. As I had already mentioned that there is a perfect fusion of Buddhism and Hinduism in Nepal so, for me to write about them separately would not be doing justice to either faith.

In addition to two major monasteries, there are small temples also. Its very easy not to notice them in front of the gigantic stupa. Once you start descending from the mount, you see another temple, Shantipur. 

Karma Raja Maha Vihar:
This is a Tibetan monastery following Kagyu tradition, one of the important Tibetan Buddhist schools, on the right side of the entrance. Devotees light yak butter lamps and the image of Sakhyamuni Buddha is stunning.

Monastery

Beautiful Sakhyamuni Buddha statue inside the Monastery

Naagpur ( नागपुर ):
Just outside the monastery, on the right is Naagpur.


Naag, is a hooded serpent. Naagpur, thus is a small pond in which there are idols of two serpents under water. These serpents are worshipped to appease other serpents in the valley.

Vasupur ( वसुपुर ):
On the left side of the main entrance is this temple which is dedicated to Devi Vasudhara or Vasundhara.

Vasupur

Goddess Vasudhara

Vasudhara, who is the consort of Kuber (the God of wealth) is  goddess of wealth and prosperity. She is the Buddhist counterpart of Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth and is worshipped mianly by the Newari community in Nepal.

a magnified view of goddess

I enlarged a portion of the goddess' photo.  The goddess holds different things in her six arms.
In the first arm on the right, goddess holds a pot of water signifying abundance of wealth. In the second arm, she holds a sheaf of grass signifying abundant harvest and is also a symbol of fertility, and the third one has a book, Prajanaparamita Sutra or the book of wisdom.

In the first left hand, the goddess is in varad mudra which is known as the charity mudra symbolizing divine blessings, second arm has jewels, a symbol of wealth,  and third has prayer beads paying homage to Buddha.
The goddess sits in an easy posture on top of a lotus with one foot towards her body and the other resting on the lotus. Since, she is the goddess of wealth and prosperity, she wears extensive jewelery.


plenty of Chaityas, White stupa and Dongak Chhlyoling Monastery (at the back)

Dongak Chhyoling Monastery:
This again is a Tibetan Monastery. Shoes need to be taken off before entering the main hall.



main hall of the monastery

woman lighting butter lamps

It is a very common practice to see people lighting butter lamps in monasteries.This has multifold purposes.
Lighting lamps gives merit to a devotee. 
It is symbolic of shedding away darkness of life leading one to enlightenment.
It is also lighted in the memory of a deceased person so that his passage after death is easy. 
It is lighted for someone who is sick so that the suffering is less and he or she may get well soon.
The lamps are also lighted for the long and good life on a person's birthday.

A black chaitya over a yoni- a perfect example of intermingling of Buddhisma and Hinduism, just 
outside the Monastery.

Ajima temple (अजिमा):
Ajima or Harati Devi is the goddess for children. She is also known as Sheetla Devi. She wards off small pox and other children diseases.

a monk pays respect at temple

Photography of the deity is strictly prohibited so I couldn't take a picture. The deity is revered both by Hindus and the Buddhists.

The original one was destroyed by King Bahadur Shah. It is said that his wife contacted small pox which disfigured her. In depression, she ended her life. The King got very angry and destroyed the temple deity. The present idol of goddess is said to be relatively new.

snow lion guarding the temple

a prayer ceremony in progress

worship of mother on Mother's Day

The Mother and Father's Day is different from the ones celebrated in other parts of the world. The date follows a lunar calendar and comes some time in April and Father's day in August. I have mentioned about father's day in my earlier post Nepal.

Behind Ajima temple is a collection of Chaityas in Northwest corner

Anantpur tower, Swayambhunatha stupa, Harati Devi temple ( two tiered pagoda style) and collection collection of Chaityas.

Swayambhunatha stupa, Ajima temple (with pagoda style roof) and Chaityas


This is a 7th century Dipankar Buddha in Northwest part of the temple. A statue of Hanuman under an umbrella sits beside Buddha.

Feeding pigeons
Feeding birds is considered an activity by which one gains merits and can be seen in all stupas.

 Buddha in Abhaya mudra

Abhay or 'no fear'. This mudra or gesture of fearlessness symbolizes peace, protection and harmony.

Agnipur (अग्निपुर ):
A rather neglected temple, Agnipur ( Agni , fire) definitely means the temple of fire.


This temple is of the God of Fire. It is situated in the North-west side of the stupa.

shops lineed up all around the stupa

There are plenty of shops to lure the tourists. It for sure makes you stop to look at the array of jewellery, nepali music cds, strings of beads, conches, masks, prayer bells etc.

Shantipur temple (शान्तिपुर):
Shantipur which actually means the place of peace is a small temple but it is named after a tantric yogi by the name of Shantikar. There is said to be a locked secret door which no one dares to enter. It is also said that the tantric is still alive and meditating.

sign showing way to temple

the temple

The temple was locked so I had to wriggle my camera in between the grid to take pictures.

inside the temple

fresco on wall

The tantric has mystical powers and when Kathmandu valley faces drought, the ruling King must enter the chamber,  meet Shantikar. Only after that is he blessed, the valley gets rain. This is shown in the fresco on walls. 

I trace my way out of the temple and move towards the exit / entrance on the south side where the car park is.

Plenty of prayer flags can be seen fluttering from above


I had in detail mentioned about prayer flags in my post on Bhutan, Some beliefs and rituals in Bhutan where they are called lungdhar. Here in Nepal they are called lungta. Their significance and purpose is the same.

It is considered to bring good fortune to tie prayer flags.


Since monkeys occupy a special place in this temple, on the right side is a swimming pool solely for monkeys!

time for a splash

meeting place !

World Peace Pond

This pond has a statue of Lord Buddha standing on a lotus. It is said that if a person's coin lands on Buddha's feet, good luck comes to him. You see lots of people aiming for Buddha feet and making a wish.

View from the car parking entrance

the other entrance, ticket counter on left side of picture

Bijeshwari ( बिजेश्वरी ):
On way back to Kathmandu from Swayambhunatha, we stopped at this temple. Bijeshwari is a beautiful small temple. Not many tourists visit it.

entrance to temple guarded by snow lions on either side

temple courtyard

view of courtyard from other side

temple, not the main deity

When you enter this temple, there is a door which leads to the main deity. Photography is not permitted there.

the main deity is behind the golden mesh window


Notice the beautiful lattice work.

another goddess temple, it was closed

torana over the temple

That finished my incredible trip to Swayambhunatha and Bijeshwari temples.


Monday, July 13, 2015

Swayambhunatha

Kathmandu valley is said to have been filled with a lake some 2,000 years back and a single lotus bloomed in it. The Bodhisattava, Manjusri emptied the water with his sword, the lotus settled where the stupa is now and formed into a stupa, hence the name Swayambhu (Swayam, self and bhu, place), a self arisen place.
This place is commonly also known as the Monkey temple as hordes of monkeys can be seen. The mythology says that Manjusri was so deep in meditation and his hair grew and soon got head lice. The lice transformed into monkeys and have been living in this area since then.

Unfortunately, like many monuments, this stupa could not escape the onslaught by Muslim invader Shamsuddin Illyas Shah of Bengal in 14th century. Suspecting lots of treasure hidden beneath the stupa, he destroyed it but found nothing. The stupa was renovated around 22 years later.

Swayambhunath (स्वयंभूनाथ) :


Panoramic view of Swayambhunatha


Entrance to Stupa

This is the main entrance from the eastern side and walking up 365 steps takes you to the Stupa. One step representing each day of the year. Notice on top of the gate, two deer and the dharma chakra. I have mentioned the significnce of it in my post on Boudhanatha Stupa, Nepal

There is another entrance to the south which has less number of steps to climb, I had taken that route earlier. This entrance is usually preferred as the car park is situated at this end.

But, this time, I decided to climb up the main entrance on the east and exit the other way. I would be pasting a picture of that entrance later in my post.


View in front of this entrance

Two huge Lord Buddha statues guarded by two snow lions at the enterance.


This 12 feet prayer wheel is on the right side of entrance.

It takes at least two people to turn the wheel. Turning the wheel gives merits.

Climbing up, you see plenty of stones inscribed with the sacred mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum

a close up


Monkeys everywhere, one needs to be careful of these primates. They are quite harmless if left alone  but do not try to provoke them.

The place is aptly named the Monkey temple!

The climb is interesting and many scenes can be seen on the sides.

Maya devi, the mother of Gautam Buddha.

These two images were actually on either side of the climb but I have put them together.



Lord Ganesha and his sibling Kartikeya. Again, these were separate which I have displayed as          one.

Shila lekh on slate

The stone carvings force you to stop. Commonly known as 'Shila Lekh', (shila, stone and lekh writing), beautiful patterns are etched on graphite or slate slabs using just a chisel.  A hammer may be used at times. The pattern is sketched on a tablet and the gentle hammering produces a beautiful piece of art. A mistake cannot be undone so the artist has to be very careful while making it.

woman concentrating on carving out a piece

Chaityas

souvenirs for sale
Beautiful things like the singing bowl, wooden masks, prayer flags, prayer beads are common things on sale.

still a long climb ahead :(

a close up



entrance ticket

As you are about to reach the top, on the left side is the ticket counter.

front view of Vajra

A huge Vajra or thunderbolt placed by king Pratap Malla guarded by snow lions on its either side welcomes one on entering. A Tibetian calendar with zodiac signs is just below it. You can see dog, pig and mouse here.

a close up and side view

In the above picture, the Tibetan zodiac animals, ox, tiger, hare,

panoramic view giving the layout of Swayambhunatha


Anantpur and Pratappur towers
Anantpur and Pratappur are two bullet shaped towers on either side of the stupa. These towers or shikhars were built by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century in memory of his wives, Ugratara and Vajrayogini. Unfortunately, Pratappur tower succumbed to the wrath of earthquake in April 2015.


Prayer bells and butter lamps surround all across with Buddha in niches at the base of stupa

Buddha statues in niches at the base of stupa

A lot of maintainence is needed to restore them fully.


A monk performing Kora. Kora is a Tibetan word and means circumambulation or going round a holy place. Hindus circumambulate around the temple deity and call it Pradikshana. While performing Kora which is always in clockwise direction, a devotee rotates the prayer wheels in a clockwise direction. 
He may have also have prayer beads in hands thus meditating while going round. It is thus a method of meditation. Some people might be seen turning the hand held prayer wheel also.

Dhyaani Buddha, Vairochana and Akshobhaya.

Around the stupa can be seen statues of five Dhyani Buddha--- Vairochana, Amitabha, Amoghsiddhi, Ratnasambhava, and Aksobhaya and also their consorts. 

Four dhyaani Buddha behind gilded copper work face in the four cardinal directions- Amoghsiddhi to the north, Ratnasambhava towards south, Akshobhaya to the east and Amitabha towards the west. Vairochana is supposed to be in the centre so he is placed slightly left of Akshobhaya.

Amoghsiddhi behind the mesh

Vairochana in white denoting space


Ratnasambhava in orangish yellow denoting earth

The other dhyaani Buddha Akshobhaya is clothed blue denoting water, and Amitabha in red, a symbol of fire.
In between the dhyaani Buddha are their consorts. 

beautifully carved work over the dhyaani Buddha



You see the same features as in Boudhanatha, Boudhnatha Stupa, Nepal. Here, instead of square bhumis or steps, they are round. Harmika has the same features along with an umbrella on top.
The squiggly nose which is number one in Nepali script denotes one way to enlightenment. The compassionate eyes of Buddha who sees and blesses everyone. The third eye represented by a dot is the eye of enlightenment.

a close up of the compassionate all seeing eyes 

There is still so much to write but I just realized, I have been going on and on. The post seems to be getting too long.
I shall continue in my next post where I shall write about monasteries and temples surrounding the stupa.