Wat Mahathat, Ayutthya

Wat Mahathat, meaning the "wat of great" was built around  1374 by King Borommarachathirat of Suphannaphum dynasty during the early Ayutthya rule. It was an important wat for the holy relics enshrined and as a religious center but also as a royal monastery and seat of Thai Buddhist monks.
Since it was close to the royal palace, it was also a center for royal ceremonies and celebrations.
King Ramesuan, son of U Thong expanded the wat in 1384 when he was not the king and was a monk here.

model of the wat

one such existing chedi

This is one of the most photographed picture. The head of Buddha made of sandstone must have fallen accidentally on the sacred fig ( peepal) tree by plunderers. The branches and roots over a period of years grew around the head enfolding it.

Royal Vihar or Sermon hall:

The royal vihar is located in the east and just has a platform now.

signs of columns which once stood there

viharn platform with south wall

south wall from the other side

This is a square balustrade or square flower- shaped balustrade. It has rectangular holes which run perpendicular to the wall. This style was often in practice in early-middle Ayutthya period.

There are many  vihars in the complex. Above, a satellite vihar with a sitting Buddha.

Many other images have been severed 

Main pagoda or prang or central tower:
The main prang was said to be 47 meters high and made of brick and mortar. From the 16th century till early 19th century, the prang fell and restored off and on. By 1911, it had come to its present state.

There are four towers in the inter-cardinal directions around the main prang. This architecture in Ayutthya was influenced by the Khmer architecture where the main prang is surrounded by four towers (quincux). The central main prang represents Mount Meru. Khmer architecture was influenced by Hindu beliefs.
In 1956, the Fine Arts Department found lots of treasure under the prang. This can be seen at Chao Sam Phrya Museum at Ayutthya.

base of main prang

The main prang has entrance in the four cardinal directions. Again, here it followed the religious beliefs of directions. Entrance to a Hindu temple faces east as sun rises in that direction and is said to be an auspicious direction. West is the direction of death, whereas, North is good and South is neutral.

There are stairs leading up on four sides of the prang in the four cardinal directions. This is all that remains today.

There are also four towers in the inter-cardinal directions around the main prang. This architecture in Ayutthya was also influenced by the Khmer architecture where the main prang is surrounded by four towers. The central main prang represents Mount Meru.

seated Buddha in front of one of the entrance to the main prang

Ubosoth or the Ordination hall:
Just next to viharn is ubosoth.The sema stones can still be seen surrounding the hall.

part of the ubosoth

satellite chedis

another chedi

gallery of headless Buddha or Rabieng Khot

It was a part of architecture during the Ayutthya period, where there was a gallery of Buddha statues or Rabieng Khot facing the main chedi or pagoda. Here, most of them have been dismembered.

Such images of Buddha are a common sight :(

carvings on column which once stood there

In 1767, the wat was completely destroyed by the invasion of Burmese army and till  restoration started it was prone to immense looting.

Entrance fee:
50 Baht
timings: 8:30 am to 5:00 pm

Decorum board:

This board is seen but not observed by tourists in all the sites we visited. It is sad that inspite of this people climb up the walls and places which should be preserved.

You might be interested in Wat Sri Sanphet, Ayutthya, Wat Yaichai Mongkol, Ayutthya, Wat Chaiwatthanaram, Ayutthya, Wat Rachaburana, Ayutthya

Wat Sri Sanphet,Ayutthya

Wat Phra Sri or Si Sanphet is one of the most beautiful in Ayutthya. Most of the structures around it have been destroyed but the three chedis still stand majestically.

view of the three chedis from the northeast end

Historical background:
In 1350, King U Thong, who also built the Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon built the royal palace where the wat stands now. This had three wooden buildings. He made Ayutthya his capital and was bestowed with the title of Ramathibodhi I.

In 1448, King Borom Trailokanath who was the eighth king of Ayutthya period and one of the greatest kings credited to bringing a lot of reforms to Thai bureaucracy, built a new royal palace and converted the existing one into a religious site to be used solely by kings or royalty. No monks resided there. They were invited only on special occassions.

Chaiyachettha, later known as Ramathibodhi II, son of Borom Trailoknath, built two chedis in 1492 to enshrine the ashes of his father and his elder brother King Borommaracha III.

In 1530, King Borommaracha IV built the third chedi to enshrine the ashes of his father, King Ramathibodhi II.

Special features of the chedis:

There are some features which are different and deviate from the normal chedi architecture during that time.

• The three chedis are identical and stand on a platform.
• They are built in Sukhothai style which was very deeply influenced by Sri Lankan bell shaped style of architecture.
• Each has a mondop on its east side. They probably had Buddha feet in them once but are just a empty mound now.

• The chedis have entrance at each of their four directions. If you look at the picture above, you would see porches jutting out on four sides. Each has a small replica of chedi on its top.

• A small Buddha image is placed in three side in the porches.
• There is a set of pillars above the harmika (square structure above the dome) supporting the pinnacle on top.
• Usually there is a gallery which surrounds the chedis which has images of Buddha facing the chedis but here, the images face outside, away from chedis.

In 1499, King Ramatibodhi II built a viharn called Viharn Luang meaning royal. The next year he ordered a huge image of Buddha to be built which took three years to finish. The 16 meter bonze image was gilded with 343 kgs of gold. It is said to be one of the most beautiful images in the world. The image was called Phra Si Sanphetdayan, meaning "Sacred majesty all seeing or knowing".

Over a period of years smaller chedis were made to house the ashes of royal family.

more chedis

an image of Buddha facing Viharn Luang

remains of viharn

a lone chedi

back view of chedis

Impressions showing the positions of images of Buddha.

Viharn Prasat Phra Narai

In mid 1600, King Narai built a viharn on the west side, in the opposite direction of Viharn Luang. It was named Prasat Phra Narai after the king,

dismembered images in front of a chedi

 ubosoth with sema stones still there

an image of Buddha faces the chedi

In 1767 Burma attacked Ayutthya, the place was ransacked. Buddha images in wats were dismembered. Viharn Luang was burnt thus melting the gold from the image of Buddha, Phra Si Sanpetdayan. Gold was looted and taken away leaving behind pieces of bronze.

In the late 18th century, King Rama I of Rattanakosin period enshrined the damaged image at Chedi Sampetdayan in Wat Pho in Bangkok.

Inspite of these instructions for visitors throughout, it is a shame that we do not protect the heritage of any country.

Taking a picture of themselves is more important!

Entrance ticket:

Since the wat is a part of Ayutthaya Historical Park, there is an entrance fee of 50 Baht

Timing:

0800 hours to 1700 hours

You might be interested in Wat Mahathat, Ayutthya where I proceed next.

Wat Yaichai Mongkol, Ayutthya

Wat Yaichai is one of the wats which does not form a part of Ayutthhaya Historical Park in Ayutthya. The central chedi which is 60 meter high can be seen from places in Bangkok. If you go to Suvarnabhumi airport via the old route, on the right side you see the brightly lit main chedi at night.

view from the road

Historical background:
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon or Mongkol means the Great monastery of victory and was built by King Ramathibodhi I, also known as U-Thong, meaning "a golden cradle". He got this name after his father gave a cradle of gold to him. He belonged to Chiengsaen dynasty and was the first ruler of Ayutthya in 1900 B.E or 1357 A.D. His two sons died of cholera and he built a chedi in 1363 and viharn in their honor. The name of the wat changed many a times. It has been named Wat Pa Kaeo, Wat Chao Phraya earlier.

It has the highest main chedi and it comes as no surprise that if you are going to the Suvarnbhumi airport at night, if you look towards your right, you can see the lighted main chedi.

The wat was built primararily to accomodate monks who after studying under Phra Vanaret Maha Thera returned from Sri Lanka. The sect was known as Pa Kaeo or Pakaew which was a new sect of Thervada and focussed mainly on meditation. This school became popular very soon and the wat came to be known as Wat Pa Kaeo.

Since the abott or the patriarch lived here, it was also called Wat Chao Phya-thai, meaning "temple of the Supreme Patriarch".
In 1592, Burma attacked Ayutthya and King Naresuan fought bravely suppressing Burmese forces. The central or the main chedi to commemorate this victory. The chedi came to be known as Phra Chedi Yai Mongkol or chedi of the great victory but was popularly known as Phra Chedi Yai or the Great Pagoda.

model of Wat Yaichai Mongkol

Most of the wats in Ayutthya have a model which gives some idea about how they must have looked at that time.

After entering, turn left to see a huge image of the reclining Buddha.

The 15 meter reclining Buddha image on north-east side of the complex was probably built by King Naresuan. It was used for his meditation purposes. The image was restored in 1905 A.D.
Just behind the reclining Buddha, are two pillars of Sarnath or commonly known as the Ashoka pillars.

Devotees praying

Mostly, Buddha is seen with closed eyes in this posture but here, his eyes are open.

Rakahng or the bell tower is rung to inform monks about the prayer time.

Ubosoth

The ubosoth has two rabbits at entrance

Sema stone outside ubosot

Khmer style statue

The architecture in Ayutthya was highly influenced by Khmer style and you see a lot of common features between the two countries.

Steep steps lead inside the large chedi

Large Buddha images in mondop on one side

There are two mondops on two sides, the walls and roof do not exist now.

The steps lead to a central room inside the chedi. Bronze images surround a reliquary in the center.

reliquary

People were throwing coins in the reliquary.

view from above

There is a square gallery which surrounds the main chedi with images of Buddha in Bhumisparsh mudra.

This was one of the wats where I saw complete Buddha images. At other places most of the images were either broken or without head. It seems a pity to see a sight like this.

 images all face the main stupa

this was once a part of vihan

Such chedis surround the main chedi

Sri Lankan style chedi

The chedis show a reflection of Sri Lankan bell shaped architecture.

Notes:

• entry is 20 Bahts
• While coming down from central chedi, go to the first level terrace to get a good view of the surrounding.

I now am heading towards Wat Sri Sanphet, Ayutthya, Wat Mahathat, Ayutthya, Wat Chaiwatthanaram, Ayutthya, Wat Rachaburana, Ayutthya