Taman Sari, Yogyakarta

Taman Sari which translates to "beautiful garden" (Taman garden and Sari beautiful )is located in Jalan Taman, 20 minutes from Sultan Palace, Kraton Ngayogyakarta Kadiningrat in Malioboro, Yogyakarta.
It was built in 1758 by Sultan Hamengkubuwono I, in order to return favors to his wives who supported him during wars.  This place has areas to relax, place to meditate and also served as a recreation area for the Sultan.

Much of the area was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1867.

The palace was surrounded by an artificial lake ( Segaran) and perfumed flower trees were planted in the island (it was earleir an island) imparting a sweet smell.

Gedhong Gapura Panggung:
This east side gate is the main entrance now.  After buying tickets you enter through this entrance.

It is very aesthetically decorated by two snakes on two sides.

As you move ahead a gate with a face is seen. This figure is seen on all gateways in the complex. It is called barong with two fang like teeth on each side. It is said to protect people probably because of Indonesia being so susceptible to natural disasters. It is also a symbol of power of  the Sultan.

Umbul Pasiraman or Umbul Binangun:
This is the swimming complex surrounded by high walls. The place was reserved only for women of the Sultan. The only male permitted here was the Sultan. Umbul means a pool.  There are mushroom shaped fountains in the pool with huge pots of plant surrounding it.
High walls surround the pool area. The entrance is only through east and west gates.

In the above picture, the east and the west gate are seen on opposite sides. Gapura Panggung, the tower straight ahead was the place from where the Sultan saw the women folk enjoying the pool.

mushroom shaped fountains

women changing room

dragon head water inlet

Gapura Panggung:
Steep wooden steps lead to the place from where the Sultan would see his women folk frolicking.

From here you can see that the pool is divided into parts:
Umbul muncar, pool for Sultan's mistress and princess.  Dividing the pool, is a walkway known as Blumbang Kuras.  At the back of this tower, is Umbul Panguras (Sultan's pool).

Umbul Panguras (Sultan pool)

Sultan's pool was reserved only for Sultan and female members of his harem.

changing room

Coming down the steps on the first level in front is a bed. It is said that the Sultan would chose a girl, looking down from above, and would later spend  time with her. There is a space under the bed to burn incense. The incense would be burnt to keep the room with a pleasant smell. A fragrant sauna treatment indeed !

Come out of this tower and turn to the left into a courtyard.

barong clearly visible on gate leading to courtyard

Gedhong Hageng Gate

This is the west gate and was the entrance for Sultan and his family to Tamansari. Hageng means large.  With houses built behind this now, there is nothing behind it. The entrance for tourists has shifted to the east gate, the gate through which we made the entrance.

The gate is decorated with peacocks, flowers and clearly shows the exquisite art prevalent at that time.

The area around Tamansari is Kampung Taman. The people living there are expert in batik and are said to be off springs of Sultan's concubines.

woman working on batik

A special tool called canting pronounced "chanting" is used to make batik.  It is a cup with a small hole. The cup is attached to a handle. The cup is dipped in melted wax and poured through the small hole. The size of the hole determines the flow of wax.

On another table, a man was working on buffalo skin making intricate pattern using a wooden hammer and small tools which help in making small holes and lines on the skin.

creating a pattern

final product

Sumur Gumulung:
Another highlight in Tamansari is visit to underground mosque called "sumur gumuling". Sumur means a well and gumuling is underground.  I am surprised that there are no signs leading to this place and its an effort to find it on your own.

We just followed a couple with undaunting faith and understanding that they too were going there. We were not mistaken and after one or two wrong turns, passing through lanes with houses and shops on both sides, we saw the entrance to the street with a circular room.

the circular structure on your right, we are still following them!

passing by a well

you see this sign on your left.

entrance to tunnel

walking inside the tunnel

steps going down

This was a mosque which was built by Sultan when there was a threat to his religion by colonialists. Though performing the function of a mosque, the well is different than a mosque in shape.

There is an elevated platform where four-way steps meet at the center and other series of steps on one side lead to the first floor gallery. So in all there are five sets of steps. These are said to represent the five pillars of Islam.

The circular well under the stairs served the purpose of doing abulations (wazu)

gallery of the circular mosque on first floor.

The lower floor served as the assembly for men and the upper floor for female devotees.

After coming out of tunnel, turn to left and again there is a small tunnel, infactthere is nothing to see inside.

entrance to another tunnel, Pintu Masuk Sumur

coming out of tunnel

walking down the path

Pulo Kenanga

Pulo Kenanga was the area in which Cananga trees were planted and the flowers imparted a beautiful smell to the place. Once you are out of this gate, you reach the gate from which you entered.
Going back to Malioboro is not difficult, there are plenty of becaks waiting.

How to reach Tamansari:
It is advisable to take a becak (pronounced bechak) from Jalan Malioboro. Two types of becak ply, one man driven and the other motorised.

Opening hours:
0800 hours to 1600 hours
Ticket price:
foreign tourist: Rp 7000
local tourist: Rp 3000